out of stock sorry
weight of single number plate - 90 grams - before packaging
3 numberplates weight - 270 grams - before packaging
|72-80||125/175||white||three, very early 72 were black or blue
|81-82||125/175||white/black||one white and two black w/white inserts|
|81-82||250 CR||green/black||one green and two black w/green inserts|
|81-82||390/430 CR||yellow/black||one yellow and two black w/yellow inserts|
|81-82||250/430 XC/WR/Auto||white/black||one white and two black w/white inserts|
1) When installing a front plate on a 66-75 era Husky, do not drill the two holes on centerline. They should drilled for the bracket with the pattern enclosed with the plates. Also and most important, do not draw the front plate down tight to the steel bracket! This only pulls the plastic and bends the bracket. The correct installation requires you to draw the plate and bracket up until there is sufficient tension between the two and this usually leaves a 1/2" gap. So this means you will have to use nylock nuts, just like oem, to avoid having this all come apart in use. On an early bike 66-70 the front brake cable was sometimes captured in this gap as a safe place for routing.
2) On 71-75 Huskys, a loose fitting, rubber coated band clamp was used as a "cable guide". It was 1/2" diameter and was to keep the front brake cable from looping around the top of the left fork leg (which it will if you do not do this) when the suspension is compressed during riding. This clamp is usually attached at the right plate mount, see my photo of the 72 400 somewhere on this site.
3) 1976 and later used front brake cable guides of steel or plastic, slid on and clamped to the left fork upper to guide this front brake cable.